How to Draughtproof Doors and Windows
The smallest gaps and cracks in the fabric of your home can create the most uncomfortable living conditions. About 15 per cent of heat loss is attributed to poor or non-existent draughtproofing, yet fitting draughtproofing materials is quite easy and inexpensive. Effective draughtproofing not only stops heat from escaping, but also makes your home feel warmer by eliminating cold draughts.
A healthy balance
The main targets are windows, doors, chimney flues and the roof access hatch, but check also for gaps around skirting (base) boards and between floorboards. However, there is a healthy balance to be struck. If every draught is eradicated, you could create ideal conditions for condensation. The solution is to draughtproof all the obvious cold spots in your home, but also ensure that there is adequate ventilation, in the form of grilles, airbricks and extractor fans.
Doors and windows
These are the two main sources of draughts in the home, and many products have been designed to deal with the problem. Windows alone are responsible for about 10 per cent of heat loss. One solution is to replace single-glazed units with double glazing, but this is the most costly remedy and it may take up to 20 years to recoup your investment in terms of energy savings.
Draught excluder strips are an inexpensive method of sealing gaps around windows and doors. The strips are self-adhesive and easy to apply, although foam strips offer variable levels of success. Avoid the cheapest varieties, as they may soon become compressed and will not do the job properly. Look for products that are guaranteed for between two and five years. These will be easy to remove and replace if you wish to upgrade the draughtproofing system.
Rubber strips, commonly with E-or P-shaped profiles, are dearer, but are better in terms of performance and longevity. Normally, casement windows are easier to draughtproof than the sash variety.
The most effective way of keeping draughts out at the sides of sashes is to fix nylon pile brush strips to the window frame. The top and bottom do not need special treatment, as any of the products recommended for casement windows can be used.
Silicone sealants (caulking) are good for filling large or irregularly shaped gaps around windows and doors. They come in white, brown and clear versions. Use a caulking gun for ease of application, although products that do not require a gun are also available. To make a repair with silicone sealant, clean the frame rebate (rabbet) and apply the sealant to the fixed frame. Brush soapy water on to the closing edge of the window or door. Close and immediately open the door. The soapy water acts as a release agent, preventing the door or window from sticking to the sealant.
Secondary glazing
This is a relatively inexpensive way to prevent draughts from windows. The cheapest method involves attaching a clear film to the inside of the window with tape. It can be discarded during the summer months and a fresh film applied in winter.
A sturdier option is acrylic sheet. If you opt for this method, make sure that at least one window is easy to open in case of an emergency.
Alternatively, you could buy a kit that allows the secondary glazing units to slide along a track.