DIY Window Security
Window security: people talk about it as if it’s something that has only been required since the Seventies – I do mean the 1970s. It seems that prior to that decade, in the Swinging Sixties, we didn’t worry about it because we were all too busy being sexually liberated. Or was it that we didn’t have much to steal? Strangely enough, and unfortunately, my memories of the Sixties are quite different. Liberation for me came about with David Bowie and Al Green in the early Seventies (musically, I mean). I’m sorry, I digress. ‘Window security’: the Victorians were well aware of the vulnerability of windows, so they designed various catches and window locks, but the most successful anti-burglary devices were the very aesthetically pleasing window shutters of the period. Again, the Victorians created an impressive design, for the shutters were multi-purpose. When closed, the window became almost impregnable and provided privacy and warmth, whilst allowing a certain amount of natural light through the top section of the window above the shutters. They are just as effective today. When the occupants of the house are at home and the shutters are open, they form a complimentary surround to the window, creating a pleasant focal point in the room. If you’re not lucky enough to have shutters in your home, you may have to resort to using modern methods, such as purpose made window locks.
I don’t approve of bars outside the window to provide security – they are dangerous barriers in the event of a fire, and they look ugly. If you feel you need a steel barrier of some sort, try the folding concertina type that are fixed internally, are far less obtrusive, but do the job.
Window security is extremely important, as this is one of the most vulnerable areas of your home, so invest in good quality locks and ensure they are well fitted.
Changing An Existing Casement Fastener For A Lockable Handle
The first thing to do is to remove the existing handle and catch. Use your screwdriver for this and take care not to slip and damage the wood. You may have to fill one or two of the holes with filler as the new handle and catch will probably not match the existing fixing holes.
Offer up the new catch to the fixed part of the window in the same location as the existing one. Using the bradawl, press into the wood, twisting as you go through the holes in the catch. This will make small pilot holes for the fixing screws. Now screw the catch firmly to the window frame.
To fix the lockable handle to the opening casement side, mark your holes and place the handle over the catch. Close the window, wedging it with paper, and mark the holes. Now use the bradawl to make the pilot holes as before and finally screw the handle to the casement window.
Fixing A Swing Lock
This type of lock is also an ideal replacement for a standard fastener. It’s a neat, unobtrusive little lock, which is usually supplied in a white powder coated finish. The lock is fitted in exactly the same way as the lockable handle fastener; screw the plate to the window frame; use a bradawl to make fixing holes for the catch on the window; check alignment and screw the catch onto the window. Keep the lock functioning perfectly by lubricating occasionally with light oil. Sounds a bit like my routine ‘the occasional lubrication’, to function perfectly.
Other Locks
There are a variety of locks available for every type and style of window – for example, dual screws for sash windows, which are inexpensive but effective. My preference is to fit sash stops, which allow the window to be left slightly open for ventilation, but remain secure. Safety wise, they score well by preventing children from opening the windows. A cockspur handle lock can be easily fitted to a wooden casement window, via a lockable extending bolt, which traps the handle. Metal casement windows, however, may be a little more difficult to attach locks to, as they may require the drilled holes to be threaded, using a die normally supplied with the locking kit. Large casements and pivot windows may require the use of rack bolts or casement locks. Alternatively fit a ‘stay arm lock’, which is fixed below the stay, with a lockable bolt passed through one of the stay arm holes. If this doesn’t suit, change the stay arm for a purpose-made lockable type.